Category: Edmonton Home Maintenance


Spring Home Maintenance

Wednesday, March 17th, 2010

Regular Maintenance Is the Key

Inspecting your home on a regular basis and following good maintenance practices is the best way to protect your investment in your home. Whether you take care of a few tasks at a time or several all at once, it is important to get into the habit of doing them. Establish a routine for yourself and you will find the work is easy to accomplish and not very time consuming. A regular schedule of seasonal maintenance can put a stop to the most common — and costly — problems, before they occur. If necessary, use a camera to take pictures of anything you might want to share with an expert for advice or to monitor or remind you of a situation later.

By following the information noted here, you will learn about protecting your investment and how to help keep your home a safe and healthy place to live.

If you do not feel comfortable performing some of the home maintenance tasks listed below, or do not have the necessary equipment, for example a ladder, you may want to consider hiring a qualified handy person to help you.

Seasonal Home Maintenance

Most home maintenance activities are seasonal. Fall is the time to get your home ready for the coming winter, which can be the most grueling season for your home. During winter months, it is important to follow routine maintenance procedures, by checking your home carefully for any problems arising and taking corrective action as soon as possible. Spring is the time to assess winter damage, start repairs and prepare for warmer months. Over the summer, there are a number of indoor and outdoor maintenance tasks to look after, such as repairing walkways and steps, painting and checking your chimney and roof.

While most maintenance is seasonal, there are some things you should do on a frequent basis year round:

Make sure air vents indoors and outdoors (intake, exhaust and forced air) are not blocked by snow or debris.
Check and clean range hood filters on a monthly basis.
Test the ground fault circuit interrupter(s) monthly by pushing the test button, which should then cause the reset button to pop up.
If there are young children in the house, make sure electrical outlets are equipped with safety plugs.
Regularly check the house for safety hazards such as a loose handrail, lifting or buckling carpet, etc.
Timing of the seasons varies not only from one area of Canada to another, but also from year to year in a given area. For this reason, we have not identified the months for each season. The maintenance schedule presented here, instead, is a general guide for you to follow.The actual timing is left for you to decide, and you may want to further divide the list of items for each season into months.

Spring

After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, carefully test the temperature and pressure relief valve to ensure it is not stuck. Caution:This test may release hot water that can cause burns.
Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season.Ventilation system, for example heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.
Have fireplace or woodstove and chimney cleaned and serviced as needed.
Shut down and clean furnace humidifier, and close the furnace humidifier damper on units with central air conditioning.
Check air conditioning system and have serviced every two or three years.
Clean or replace air conditioning filter (if applicable).
Check dehumidifier and clean if necessary.
Turn OFF gas furnace and fireplace pilot lights where possible.
Have well water tested for quality. It is recommended that you test for bacteria every six months.
Check smoke, carbon monoxide and security alarms and replace batteries.
Clean windows, screens and hardware, and replace storm windows with screens. Check screens first and repair or replace if needed.
Open valve to outside hose connection after all danger of frost has passed.
Examine the foundation walls for cracks, leaks or signs of moisture, and repair as required. Repair and paint fences as necessary.
Ensure sump pump is operating properly before the spring thaw sets in. Ensure discharge pipe is connected and allows water to drain away from the foundation.
Re-level any exterior steps or decks which moved due to frost or settling.
Check eavestroughs and downspouts for loose joints and secure attachment to your home, clear any obstructions, and ensure water flows away from your foundation.
Clear all drainage ditches and culverts of debris.
Undertake spring landscape maintenance and, if necessary, fertilize young trees.
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Renovating Step By Step – Part 6

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

Step 7. Inspect as you go

Most renovation experiences are happy ones. But don’t assume that things are going according to plan just because you have a sound contract and good rapport with your renovator. Stay on top of your project to prevent minor errors from becoming major problems.

If you have a disagreement, be reasonable. Go over the contract and listen carefully to the renovator’s explanations. If you’re still not satisfied, get a second opinion from a recognized home inspector or an architect before taking further action.

How to Handle Problems with Your Renovator

What if you’re not happy with the job? First, try to negotiate a solution. If that fails, send the renovator a registered letter setting out your objections and mail copies to your provincial consumer protection branch and­if your renovator is a member­to your local home builders association.

In this letter, you can either:

A. threaten to cancel the contract and obtain a refund of your deposit (permitted in some provinces); or

B. give the renovator a set time in which to finish the work to your satisfaction, and advise that if, after that time work is incomplete, you will hire another contractor to complete the work using money remaining from the original contract. Only do this after you have obtained advice from your lawyer and a new estimate from another contractor.

Poor workmanship and unsatisfactory business practices can be reported to the municipal bureau that issued the contractor’s licence. Work that is not up to building standards can be reported to your local building inspection office.

There are laws to protect you from dishonest or incompetent contractors. Provincial governments and the federal government have consumer protection branches: you can ask for their help. Your local Better Business Bureau will also hear your complaints and help mediate a dispute. Finally, you may be able to file a claim in small claims court.

Keep It Safe

From initial demolition to final cleanup, renovation projects can present a number of hazards. Some are obvious: the nail-studded board tossed into a pathway, the naked blade of a power tool. Others are less visible: the unshored excavation, the fumes from solvents, paints and glues.

There are good reasons to think about safety even if someone else is doing the actual work. You don’t want your renovation marred by an accident or a lawsuit.

Know what your insurance will cover before work starts, especially if you are supplying some of the materials or lending tools or other items. And make sure that your contractor’s coverage is adequate to shield you against all possible claims. Contractors normally carry liability insurance, but their policies may not cover all the tradespeople involved, or others who stray onto the site. In the case of serious injury, you could be liable.

Once work has started, knowledge and awareness can prevent many accidents.

  • Warn people coming near the site about hazardous areas, activities and substances before they encounter them.
  • Insist that the work site be kept tidy and as hazard-free as possible.
  • Insist that hazardous substances be kept in sealed, clearly marked, non-food containers.
  • Dispose of hazardous waste promptly, in accordance with local regulations: don’t put it out with the regular garbage.
  • If you’re doing the work yourself, read and follow the instructions on all hazardous products, as well as the Material Safety Data Sheets provided by manufacturers and retailers.
  • Insist on the use of appropriate, well-maintained tools and equipment.
  • See to it that appropriate safety equipment and clothing approved by the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) are used.
  • Insist that a fire extinguisher approved by Underwriters Laboratories of Canada (ULC) for Type A, B and C fires be on site at all times.
  • Stay alert and ensure that everyone on the job stays alert. Report horseplay or erratic behaviour to the project manager at once.
  • Insist that all hazardous materials and sites are safely locked up at the end of each work day.

If you live in your house while the work is being done, check at the end of each day to be sure that safety precautions have been followed.

Step 8. Give the final thumbs-up

As the work winds down, make sure that it has been done to your satisfaction and according to your contract. Never make the final payment or sign a certificate of work completion or any other document releasing the renovator from further responsibility until all deficiencies are corrected. Don’t release the lien holdback until the registration period for mechanics’ liens has passed and any outstanding liens have been paid.

Once the project is finished and life returns to normal, sit back and enjoy the fruit of your labours. If you prepared yourself well, you’ll find your hard work has really paid off.

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Renovating Step By Step – Part 5

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Renovation, Step by Step

Step 6. Don’t worry about the mess

It’s no fun living on a construction site. In fact, if the renovations are major, you may want to consider moving out for a while. Of course, this isn’t always possible. Be sure at least to find out from your renovator what kinds of disruptions you can expect.

For example, water and electricity may have to be turned off, heavy equipment brought in, or sanding done at some stage of your project. As the work progresses, ask for specific dates and times so that you and your family can plan around them.

You’ll also want to negotiate the times workers start and finish each day, and whether they’ll work on weekends. Renovators often keep several jobs goings at once, especially during the busy summer season, so there may be days or even weeks between their appearances. These periods must be indicated in the renovator’s work schedule.

Be aware that renovating can be a dirty job, or at least a very dusty one. If you decide to stay in your house, remove all furnishings and personal items from the work site. If you can’t easily move something, cover it with a plastic sheet and seal it with duct tape.

Seal off doors to non-work areas and heating and ventilation ducts in the work area. Sealed-off areas will probably require a supplemental source of heat during the winter.

The Human Factor

A professional renovator and crew will always do their best to be considerate of your privacy and personal space. In turn, they will have certain needs, such as access to toilets, water and a telephone. Plastic runners leading to a toilet, water and a telephone will help keep your carpets and floors clean.

Tell your renovator what spaces and belongings are off-limits, and the times you do not want to be disturbed. If workers have habits that annoy you, discuss your concerns with the project manager or your renovator, not with individual crew members. If you allow smoking in your house, place ashtrays in the work area. Otherwise, ask workers to smoke outside.

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Renovating Step By Step – Part 4

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

Renovation, Step By Step

Step 5. Get it in writing

Always get a written contract describing the work to be done, what it will cost and how payments will be made. Never agree to anything before you have it in writing.

Your Responsibilities:

  • Decide what’s to be done
  • Choose materials and products as required
  • Select the renovator or design firm
  • Ensure the contract describes the job completely and correctly
  • Obtain zoning approval and building permits
  • Provide workers with the necessary space, access and utilities
  • Inform the renovator about deficiencies or mistakes as soon as possible
  • Pay for the job once it has been done to your satisfaction
Your Renovator’s Responsibilities:

  • Be licensed
  • Perform work as contracted, unless changes are authorized in writing
  • Maintain liability and property damage insurance, and workers’ compensation
  • Hire skilled workers
  • Pay workers, suppliers and subcontractors
  • Oversee the quality of work
A Smile and a Handshake Just Aren’t Enough

Without an agreement on paper, there’s little you can do about poor or incomplete work. You risk being charged more than you expected, and it’s unlikely you’ll get any warranty or after-sales service.

Professional contractors always provide customers with a clearly written contract. Once signed by you and your renovator, it’s legally binding. So make sure that what you sign describes exactly what you want. Most client-renovator disputes occur because there was no contract,
or because the contract was vague or incomplete.

If you have any doubts or questions about the contract, have your lawyer review it before you sign. If your renovator refuses to accept a written contract, get another renovator.

The Main Ingredients

There’s no such thing as a standard contract. Every one is an individual document covering special requirements. That said, all contracts should include:

  • The correct and complete address of the property where work will be done
  • Your name and address
  • The renovator’s name, address and telephone number (if a corporate name is used, the company’s official on-site representative should be named)
  • A detailed description of project, plus sketches and a list of materials to be used
  • The type of work that will be subcontracted
  • The right to retain a mechanic’s lien holdback as specified under provincial law
  • A clause stating that work will conform to the requirements of all applicable codes
  • Start and completion dates
  • Agreement about who is responsible for obtaining all necessary permits, licences and certificates — the homeowner or the contractor
  • Responsibility of the contractor for removing all debris as soon as construction is completed
  • A statement of all warranties, explaining exactly what is covered and for how long
  • A statement of the contractor’s public liability and property damage insurance
  • Price and terms of payment.

Both you and the contractor should sign two copies of the contract, one for you and one for the contractor.

In the Real World

No matter how well you plan your project, changes will probably be necessary. These can result in increased costs and delays. To protect yourself and your contractor, changes should be made only through a written change order detailing what’s involved and the associated cost differences.

Money Matters

Your renovator may ask for a deposit on contract signing, especially for larger jobs. If so, it should be a nominal sum unless special items or materials have to be ordered.

Paying by cheque is another important part of getting it in writing. It gives you a record of what you have paid, and what you have paid for. You should also insist on a signed receipt.

Pay only for work completed, and never for the full amount. Holding back some of the money from each instalment protects you against liens that can be placed on your property by suppliers or workers unpaid by the renovator. Liens hold your property as security for the renovator’s debts — even if you have paid the renovator in full!

You can guard against this by making out some cheques jointly to the renovator and supplier or workers, provided this is agreed to in the contract.

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Renovating Step By Step – Part 3

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010
Renovation Step by Step

Step 4. Pick your partners

Many homeowners decide to do their own renovations. In most provinces, you may do so, provided you get the necessary permits, follow local building codes, and have the work inspected by the appropriate authorities.

Doing it yourself can save money, but there are other costs to consider. Are you prepared to draw up your own plans, get your own permits, and schedule inspections? How much time can you spend away from your regular job, your family, and other commitments? Can you be as efficient or as skilled as tradespeople who do this specialized work every day?

You may feel comfortable painting a room or removing an old fence, but specialized tasks that involve wiring, plumbing or heating systems are usually best left to professionals. Some municipalities, in fact, require certain kinds of work to be done by certified tradespeople.

There is also the question of equipment: if you don’t own the tools, you’ll have to buy or rent them. If you run into problems, who will you call? Renovation is a big responsibility, and at times it can be stressful.

Most people find that contracting-out the work is best. But choosing the right renovator is extremely important.

Who’s Best for the Job?

Many small jobs can be done by your local handyperson. For larger or more complex projects, however, it’s a good idea to consult an architect, a design firm or a full-service renovator. Their involvement can range from taking a simple walk through your home to come up with ideas to taking responsibility for the entire renovation.

In addition to drawing up plans and layouts and hiring a contractor for you, these professionals can obtain zoning approvals and building permits, supervise the progress and quality of work, and approve payments.

Favour local firms that have been in business for a number of years. Ask for client references: satisfied customers are the best recommendation. You may even wish to tour the renovator’s current job site before making a decision.

The company and its subcontractors should have proper licences to do your work, as well as adequate insurance. Don’t be shy about asking: reputable firms won’t hesitate to answer your questions.

Even if you give an architect or designer the fullest degree of responsibility, you should understand the renovation process, including budgets, quotes and contracts, in order to protect your interests.

Choosing your Renovator

Ask for recommendations from:

  • friends and colleagues
  • building supply and hardware stores
  • local home builder and renovator associations
  • Better Business Bureau
  • municipal building departments
  • satisfied people who have recently completed a renovation
Beware of contractors who:

  • quote a price without seeing the job
  • demand a large down payment to buy materials: all reputable renovators maintain charge accounts with suppliers
  • refuse to provide a written contract that specifies exactly what they will do
  • come to the door offering a “special price” because they happen to be working in the area
  • promise a discount in exchange for using your home to “advertise” their work — the same offer will have been made to everyone
  • can’t give you an actual business address, only a post office box, telephone number, or the address of an answering service
Estimates

Get written estimates from at least two, and preferably three, of the renovators recommended to you. An estimate is a renovator’s best prediction of the charges you can expect to incur, based on his or her understanding of what you want, labour and material costs, and any anticipated difficulties.

An estimate should be in writing and include a job description, the full price, terms of payment, a schedule of work, and start and completion dates. Don’t mistake an estimate for a guarantee, though, and remember that it’s no substitute for a written contract.

Is the Lowest Bid the Best Bid?

Not necessarily. Renovators who submit unusually low bids may have made a mistake, or may be too inexperienced to estimate properly. When they find out they are going to lose money, they might look for ways to cut costs, add unjustified extras to the bill, or abandon the job.

Cashing Out

Some contractors may offer a discount for payment in cash with no written contract. Don’t be tempted. “Underground economy” transactions are risky, and the pitfalls can easily offset any promised savings.

A contractor who insists on cash with no contract may be unlicensed and uninsured — meaning your cash advances are unprotected. He or she could neglect to obtain the required building permits, licences and certificates, or fail to arrange for inspections, landing you in trouble with your municipal building department.

As well, many product warranties are invalid unless the items are installed by a recognized contractor. And you could face personal health and safety problems because of poor workmanship.

Liabilities

If the contractor’s crew is improperly trained and a worker damages your property or someone else’s, or is injured on site, you may find your homeowner’s insurance won’t cover you. You’d then be held financially liable for any damage or injuries.

Should something go wrong or the work prove unsatisfactory, or if the contractor walks off the job without finishing it, you may have no legal recourse. Cash payments make it difficult to prove the contractor was ever there. You could end up having to pay another contractor to finish the job properly or make repairs.

After paying in full, you may discover that the contractor has not paid for materials and labour employed at your site, and you may be held accountable for those bills.

Protect Yourself

Your home represents the largest single investment you’re ever likely to make. Protect its value — and yourself — by dealing with a reputable firm that operates in the open market, legally and responsibly. Your peace of mind is worth it.

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Property Tax Buster

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Taxes suck. I don’t know anyone who likes to pay them. I know I sure don’t!!

I really don’t like it when my property tax assessment comes in, and my taxes go up because the city thinks my property is worth more this year than it was last year. That REALLY sucks.

But there’s hope. You can challenge your tax assessment. We can help.

Provide us with the information below, and we’ll send you our Property Tax Buster CMA, which you can use to challenge your property taxes.

How cool is that?

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read John’s privacy policy

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Renovating Step By Step – Part 1

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

‘Tis the season to start renovating. Heres something to think about Bloggers when you decide renovating is the way to go! This is the first of six blogs about renovations. This information was found on the CMHC website (www.cmhc.schl.ca).

Before You Renovate…

Why Renovate?

Everyone has a different reason for wanting to renovate. Sometimes it’s the simple need for a change. Other times, the motivation is more practical. If you wake up one day with a puddle in the basement and a water-stained ceiling, you know you have to act fast.
From the planning stage to the final touches, this guide shares our experience and knowledge with you. And it tells you about some of the first-rate resources we’ve developed to deal with all kinds of renovation issues. In general, there are three types of renovation: lifestyle, retrofit, and maintenance and repair.

  • Lifestyle renovations improve your home­ and your way of life. They might involve building a sun room for pleasure, or converting unused attic space into living quarters to meet your changing needs.
  • Retrofit projects usually focus on your home’s shell or mechanical systems. Examples are upgrading your insulation, replacing your furnace, or putting on new siding.
  • Maintenance and repair renovations protect the investment you have made in your house through activities such as caulking windows, reshingling your roof, or replacing your eavestroughs.

Is Your Renovation Practical?

While maintenance renovations aren’t really a choice — they’re part of owning a home and protecting your investment — lifestyle renovations and even some retrofit plans may not be practical or do-able.

Be clear about your expectations. Learn when to draw the line between what’s desirable and what’s essential.

Almost any renovation will add to, or at least protect, the equity in your home, but kitchen and bathroom renovations and painting normally provide the greatest payback when you sell. If your property taxes and insurance premiums go up, the increase is usually small.

Your Money’s Worth?

Over time, the money you save on heat, light and water by making your home more energy efficient may actually pay for the upgrades. Safety also pays. Insurance companies often decrease premiums when you improve wiring or fire prevention and improve or add a security system.

On the other hand, you can overdo a good thing. If you plan to move within a few years, is the renovation worth it? Will it pay to put on an expensive new addition when your house is in an area of more modest homes?
Payback Range of Typical Renovations
Bathroom renovations (75-100%)
Kitchen renovations (75-100%)
Interior painting (50-100%)
Exterior painting (50-100%)
Ten Average Payback Potentials
Roof shingle replacement (50-80%)
Furnace/heating system (50-80%)
Basement Renovation (50-75%)
Recreation room addidition (50-75%)
Installing a fireplace (50-75%)
Flooring (50-75%)
Constructing a garage (50-75%)
Window/door replacement (50-75%)
Building a deck (50-75%)
Central Air Conditioning (25-75%)

Is your Renovation Adaptable?

It’s best to take the long view when you’re renovating, because your needs are bound to change as time goes by. Try to build the most flexibility and long-term usefulness into your design.

For instance, some day you may want to convert a nursery into a home office. Installing the required wiring now will save you time and money later, and will also add a selling feature if you decide to move.

This kind of planning is part of what CMHC calls FlexHousing. And it’s not just about preparing for future changes. By installing features such as lever door handles, non-slip flooring and extra-wide doorways, you make household activities more comfortable and safer today.

And Healthy?

Planning a renovation is also an opportunity to apply Healthy Housing principles.

The goal of Healthy Housing is to reduce house-hold demands on the outdoor environment while providing a healthy indoor environment — by installing energy-efficient appliances, for instance, or by making the most use of natural light and passive solar energy in your designs.

Choose building materials that help conserve natural resources, such as salvaged lumber and products made with recycled content. Building materials should be durable, easy to maintain, and should not give off toxic gases once installed. Finally, choose and use construction techniques that minimize waste and debris.

The basis of Healthy Housing is to think of your home as an ecosystem­and a part of the larger environment. Incorporating Healthy Housing principles when planning your renovation will help protect your family and community, and could very well help you save money.

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2010 Interior Design Trends

Saturday, January 23rd, 2010

In the market for a new home and wondering what to look for in a modern interior? Or, thinking of selling your home and want to update to show its best? These 2010 design trends are what we can expect to see in homes this year;

Going Green to Save Green: Environmental sustainability is everyone’s responsibility, and we can each find our own way to fit it in to our unique lifestyles. One way is to incorporate energy efficiency in to our home, and it doesn’t hurt that it’s easy on the wallet. Solar hot water tanks, energy efficient fireplaces and appliances, environmentally friendly gardening products, sustainable wood flooring (such as reclaimed wood, bamboo or plantation cork) and solar panel sky-lights are all ways that a modern home can run its greenest!

High-tech – “smart” appliances use electronics both for a more efficient operation and to perform functions unheard of only a few years ago: fridges that make dinner suggestions or tell you what you’re out of; ovens and dishwashers that can be programmed to come on at a time that’s convenient for you; built-in computers, televisions, MP3 player docks and many other, now almost routine high-tech functions are demanded by homeowners to meet the needs of their kids that quite simply don’t know life any other way than with technology!

Kitchens – There is one word to describe the colours and tones used for kitchen cabinets and counter tops this year: dark. Mocha stained cabinetry and granite in dark colours dominate kitchen interiors and is in stark contrast to the light cabinetry of recent years. Because of the spaciousness of kitchen floor plans nowadays, the darker tones are pulled off with ease, and give warmth. Glass tile is being used for back splashes and is laid in unique patterns and using colours that draw the eye and add flare! Stainless steel appliances are still King for a reason: not only are they sophisticated, durable and hygienic but they also compliment almost any kitchen style and won’t go out of date any time soon.

Bathrooms – From pretty powder rooms to luxurious, massive, spa-like ensuites, today’s bathrooms are sophisticated showcases where great design meets technological innovation. When will the bathroom stop growing? Not in the foreseeable future, say design experts. Architects and home builders are allocating more space than ever before to master ensuites, and bathroom manufacturers keep figuring out tantalizing ways to fill it. Freestanding tubs – if you have the space – and luxurious walk-in showers (sometimes more than one) are just two of the space-hungry features making these massive, spa-like rooms a destination in the home.

Flooring – long length, wide plank and random width hardwood laid to achieve a natural appearance is popular, as is very dark tones of hardwood. Consumers have become fed up with the characteristics of laminate flooring that causes it to shrink over time, and builders are going straight to hardwood as the flooring of choice. Tile is also a premier choice for kitchens and bathroom floors and mixing and matching of sizes and tones is in.

Paint – Grey is the new neutral! Good-bye taupe and hello to charcoal, gun-metal and matte silver. Grey is an option where an alternative neutral is desired for the home, and when mixed together makes a great palette for a room. Think of grisaille, the technique of paintings or frescoes that are many tints of grey. The effect is subtle, soothing and very chic.

Wallpaper – Gasp! Who would have thought? But, as homeowners look to express themselves within their sanctuary, wallpaper offers a quick way to add variance in colour and shapes that cannot be as easily or economically created with paint.

If moving in to a more updated home is one of your 2010 resolutions, I am happy to show you some modern, newer homes in your price range. As always, I can be reached on my cell phone at (780) 934-8514 for your own personalized tour of your future home!

Sarah Dulmage, Realtor
Re/Max Real Estate
Cell: (780) 934-8514

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Winterize Your Home or Freeze!

Friday, January 15th, 2010

The Third Annual Deep Freeze Festival in Edmonton is over but the chilly winds and the knee deep snow is here to stay for a couple of months more. In fact, December 2009 saw the towns of Huntsville and Bracebridge near Toronto declare snow emergency. Even Marmot Basin in Jasper National Park, Alberta experienced severe snowfall – great news for skiers! But not so great news for all of you who are yet to winterize their homes!

Unless you desperately want to be in the FAH (Frozen at Home) list, winterizing your home is probably the best option right now. Wondering how to go about it or where to start? Here are 8 hot tips for winterizing your home:

Get the furnace inspected: Call a HVAC pro so that they can inspect your furnace and clean the ducts and yes! Don’t forget to remove inflammable items from near the furnace.

Is your fireplace ready: Call for a chimney sweep and get rid of last year’s creosote and soot. Check the fireplace damper

Check for plumbing freezes: You will need to call in a professional to check if there are any burst pipes caused due to freezing or extreme temperature. If the piping is exposed in any part of your home, ensure that it is properly insulated using foam.

Landscaping is essential: Sometimes overgrown trees close to electrical wires can create unwanted situation in the winters. If there are overgrown trees or shrubs in your garden, trim them. While you are working in the garden, seal the driveway and wooden decks if any.

Keep an emergency kit handy: When snow comes calling anything can happen and snow storms can turn your day into a nightmare. Having an emergency kit around can be quite helpful. Your emergency kit should contain lighter, candle, torch, an utility phone book, first aid kit, water, and food supplies. Winter storms have quite a nasty habit of popping up uninvited – make sure you have an evacuation plan in place.

Check your windows: Wood and glass can be prone to cracks, and fissures. Check your windows for cracks in the glass and air leaks. If there are cracks, replace the glass. Rope caulk will work best on joints from where air leaks are suspected.

Weatherstrip your wooden door: A DIY job, weatherstripping a wooden door is easy. All you have to do is take out the old weatherstripping and slide in a new one. Weatherstripping kits are available at all hardware stores.

Check the roof: I once missed out on checking my roof and that year a snow blizzard happen to visit my city. I guess I am lucky to be still writing this blog. When checking the roof, look for damaged shingles and flashing around the chimney. Oh yes! Don’t forget the downspouts; clean them if necessary.

Last but not the least; keep emergency or paramedic numbers ready. Enjoy the snow, enjoy the dark chocolate, and keep reading my blog!

FYI: To get extra ounces of warmth this winter, check these real hot homes on YouTube!

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Winter Home Maintenance Checklist

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

Regular Maintenance Is the Key

Inspecting your home on a regular basis and following good maintenance practices is the best way to protect your investment in your home. Whether you take care of a few tasks at a time or several all at once, it is important to get into the habit of doing them. Establish a routine for yourself and you will find the work is easy to accomplish and not very time consuming. A regular schedule of seasonal maintenance can put a stop to the most common — and costly — problems, before they occur. If necessary, use a camera to take pictures of anything you might want to share with an expert for advice or to monitor or remind you of a situation later.

By following the information noted here, you will learn about protecting your investment and how to help keep your home a safe and healthy place to live.

If you do not feel comfortable performing some of the home maintenance tasks listed below, or do not have the necessary equipment, for example a ladder, you may want to consider hiring a qualified handy person to help you.

Seasonal Home Maintenance

Most home maintenance activities are seasonal. Fall is the time to get your home ready for the coming winter, which can be the most grueling season for your home. During winter months, it is important to follow routine maintenance procedures, by checking your home carefully for any problems arising and taking corrective action as soon as possible. Spring is the time to assess winter damage, start repairs and prepare for warmer months. Over the summer, there are a number of indoor and outdoor maintenance tasks to look after, such as repairing walkways and steps, painting and checking your chimney and roof.

While most maintenance is seasonal, there are some things you should do on a frequent basis year round:

Make sure air vents indoors and outdoors (intake, exhaust and forced air) are not blocked by snow or debris.
Check and clean range hood filters on a monthly basis.
Test the ground fault circuit interrupter(s) monthly by pushing the test button, which should then cause the reset button to pop up.
If there are young children in the house, make sure electrical outlets are equipped with safety plugs.
Regularly check the house for safety hazards such as a loose handrail, lifting or buckling carpet, etc.
Timing of the seasons varies not only from one area of Canada to another, but also from year to year in a given area. For this reason, we have not identified the months for each season. The maintenance schedule presented here, instead, is a general guide for you to follow.The actual timing is left for you to decide, and you may want to further divide the list of items for each season into months.

Winter

Check and clean or replace furnace air filters each month during the heating season.Ventilation system, such as heat recovery ventilator, filters should be checked every two months.
After consulting your hot water tank owner’s manual, drain off a dishpan full of water from the clean-out valve at the bottom of your hot water tank to control sediment and maintain efficiency.
Clean humidifier two or three times during the winter season.
Vacuum bathroom fan grille.
Vacuum fire and smoke detectors, as dust or spider webs can prevent them from functioning.
Vacuum radiator grilles on back of refrigerators and freezers, and empty and clean drip trays.
Check gauge on all fire extinguishers; recharge or replace if necessary.
Check fire escape routes, door and window locks and hardware, and lighting around outside of house; ensure family has good security habits.
Check the basement floor drain to ensure the trap contains water. Refill with water if necessary.
Monitor your home for excessive moisture levels—for example, condensation on your windows, which can cause significant damage over time and pose serious health problems—and take corrective action. Refer to the About Your House factsheet Measuring Humidity in Your Home.
Check all faucets for signs of dripping and change washers as needed. Faucets requiring frequent replacement of washers may be in need of repair.
If you have a plumbing fixture that is not used frequently, such as a laundry tub or spare bathroom sink, tub or shower stall, run some water briefly to keep water in the trap.
Clean drains in dishwasher, sinks, bathtubs and shower stalls.
Test plumbing shut-off valves to ensure they are working and to prevent them from seizing.
Examine windows and doors for ice accumulation or cold air leaks. If found, make a note to repair or replace in the spring.
Examine attic for frost accumulation. Check roof for ice dams or icicles. If there is excessive frost or staining of the underside of the roof, or ice dams on the roof surface, consult the CMHC About Your House factsheet Attic Venting, Attic Moisture and Ice Dams for advice.
Check electrical cords, plugs and outlets for all indoor and outdoor seasonal lights to ensure fire safety: if worn, or if plugs or cords feel warm to the touch, replace immediately.
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Furnace Filters – More Unsexy House Stuff

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

Is it time to change the filter Bloggers? Check out the information I pulled of the CMHC website about your furnace filter. This is the sort of stuff none of us wants to deal with, but can be uber important for your home and your health. Especially with all he recent H1N1 and pandemic fears… a clean furnace filter can go a long way to a healthy home! (www.cmhc-schl.ca)

Your Furnace Filter

What a Furnace Filter Can do for You

Traditionally, furnace filters were designed to protect the furnace and fans. With increased air quality awareness, some filters are now being installed to reduce exposure to particles which can affect your health.

There is a wide variety of furnace filters available. However, you may find it confusing to select one which is suitable. This purpose of this document is to provide you with guidance when selecting your furnace filter.

What Airborne Particles are Found in Your Home?

The particles you breathe in your home come from a variety of sources including:

  • dust on floors or other surfaces that is disturbed by activity in the house
  • dust generated by smoking, burning candles, cooking, doing laundry, etc.
  • hair and skin flakes from humans or pets
  • particles from the outside air which come into your home with infiltrating air

Some particles are so small that they are inhaled and then exhaled without being trapped in your lungs. Some larger particles are trapped in your nose and throat and never reach your lungs. Still other particles are too large to be inhaled.The particles most dangerous to you are those that enter your lungs and lodge there.

You can see the particles of dust which accumulate on your television screen, shelves, and furniture. But you can’t see the respirable particles. Respirable particles can be easily inhaled into your lungs and provoke respiratory illness. Although you would probably like to keep visible dust out of your home, the main health risk comes from respirable particles, which include tobacco smoke, spores, bacteria, and viruses.

The activity levels of the people in your home can affect the air you breathe. Activity such as vacuuming and cooking can create or stir up particles. On the other hand, during periods of inactivity such as the middle of the night, particle concentrations tend to be much lower.

The Cost of Clean Air

For a furnace fan filter to be effective, your furnace fan would have to run almost all the time. Unless you already have your furnace fan operating all the time, this additional fan use can add $200 or more per year to your electric bill, unless you have a high efficiency furnace fan motor.

So… How do You Reduce Levels of Respirable Particles?

Our best current guess is to reduce dust entry by:

  • removing footwear on entry;
  • keeping major dust generators (smoking, pets, etc.) out of the house;
  • reducing dust collecting surfaces (open shelves, carpets, upholstered furniture, etc.);
  • diligent and frequent vacuuming with an efficient vacuum cleaner;
  • reducing the entry of particle-laden outdoor air by closing windows, improving house airtightness, and installing an intake filter on the air supply;
  • using a good furnace filter.

Most of these recommendations will also reduce the amount of visible dust in your house.

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Caring for Your Attic – Part 3

Friday, December 4th, 2009

Here’s the 3rd and final part of this series on maintaining your attic. This past weekend I climbed up into my attic, and realized that I really hadn’t been up there for more than 4 years. Ouch.

Attic Venting, Attic Moisture and Ice Dams

Ice Damming

Ice dams are the large mass of ice that collects on the lower edge of the roof or in the gutters. As more melting snow (or rain) runs down the roof, it meets this mass of ice and backs up, sometimes under the shingles and into the attic or the house.

Ice damming usually occurs with a significant depth of snow on the roof. If the attic temperature is above freezing, it warms the roof sheathing which melts the snow lying on the shingles. This water runs down the roof until it meets the roof overhang, which is not warmed by the attic and will be at the temperature of the surrounding air. If the air and the overhang are below freezing, then the water will freeze on the roof surface and start the ice dam.

An attic with no insulation will generally not have a problem with ice dams. The heat coming through the attic will tend to melt snow off as it lands and prevent much accumulation. A well-sealed and insulated attic will generally not have ice dams. Like the example of a detached garage, this generally results in a cool roof and no great amount of melting. Ice dams are more frequent if the roof is complicated by many valleys and dormers or there is a large roof overhang.

Ice dams will first show up where there is inadequate insulation or major air leaks. One way to find these locations is to look at the roof with the first heavy frost in fall or light snow. Watch where the snow melts off first and find out what is under that spot on the roof. One common sight in such conditions is a horizontal melt line across the roof of a storey-and-a-half house, where the short kneewall meets the ceiling. Other places would be beneath a roof-ducted exhaust fan or over a leaky attic access hatch. The basic relief for ice damming is to seal all attic air leaks and insulate thoroughly, the same solution as for attic condensation.

Cut pieces of extruded polystyrene will help as well. Mount a piece of extruded polystyrene 25 mm (1 inch) from the sheathing to maintain the ventilation air space and fill between this board and the attic floor with good insulation.

An extensive and expensive ice dam solution is to make the roof impermeable by using a self-sealing membrane under the shingles. Building codes require such membranes on the lower part of the roof in new houses. Note that these membranes do not stop ice dams, they just prevent the water from leaking through the roof sheathing. Ice damming can still create the unsightly ice build-up and possible damage to shingles and gutters, but you may be spared the leakage into the house.

Do all these ice damming solutions sound like too much work? There are many quicker solutions that are popular, but in the end have drawbacks. You can attach electric cables which will melt channels in the ice, sometimes alleviating a problem. Cables use a significant amount of electrical energy as well as being an eyesore on most roofs.

Removing gutters will keep them from becoming ice traps, but gutters are valuable: they keep roof water away from your basement. Attacking ice dams every winter with an axe or ice pick is a good way to shorten shingle life — and a good opportunity to fall off a ladder. At least one person has had success with filling nylon stockings with salt and laying them in the gutter. Some corrosion and environmental damage may result.

For some older houses with complicated roofs, it may be impossible to completely eliminate ice dams without resorting to some of the methods above. However, for most houses, the preferred solution is to keep house heat out of the attic, by air sealing and insulating, and avoid weaker alternatives. Spend the time to fix it properly and you will not have to worry about it again while you live in that house.

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Caring for Your Attic – Part 2

Wednesday, December 2nd, 2009

Here’s part 2 of the CMHC report on Attic’s in our cold Canadian winter. Something every Edmonton home owner should worry about…

Attic Venting, Attic Moisture and Ice Dams

Attic Venting

If you have properly sealed the attic you should not need more attic ventilation. Attic ventilation is overrated. In winter, the cold outside air cannot hold much humidity or carry moisture away from the attic. In summer, attic temperatures are more affected by the sun and shingle colour than by the amount of ventilation.

Recent research shows that identical attics, with one unvented and the other vented to code, have much the same humidity and temperature. Attic computer models show that attics in damp coastal climates may actually be drier with less ventilation.

Building codes require attic ventilation. Ventilation may make a difference in a borderline situation. Attic ventilation is driven primarily by wind. To ensure thorough venting, have openings at the soffits and then higher on the roof at the ridge, gable end, or high on the roof surface. The requirement for attic vent sizing is nominally 1:300 (or one square foot of vent size for every 300 square feet of attic floor area). If you wish to improve your attic venting, ensure that it is as well distributed as possible. Do not worry about meeting the 1:300 requirement exactly. Vents should be screened to keep out animals and insects. If you are using soffit vents, make sure that there is a space between the roof sheathing and the insulation for the ventilation air to pass. Commercially available plastic or card board forms can be used, or the extruded polystyrene board option described in the Ice Damming section.

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Caring for Your Attic, Part 1

Monday, November 30th, 2009

Regardless of the terrific November weather that we’ve had here in Edmonton, we all know that winter is coming. It’s unavoidable. It’s coming. So stop denying it!

For your house this means that the attic will face harder pressure than it does through the rest of the year. Snow and cold are difficult on attics to say the least.

So I’m posting for you a great report from CMHC that details some great suggestions and pointers for taking care of your attic and likely saving yourself a wad of cash. That way you can spend a wad of cash on something else!

Attic Venting, Attic Moisture and Ice Dams

It is rare for Canadians to visit their attics. For many years building codes have required high levels of attic insulation, making attics less-than-hospitable places. People usually go into their attics for one of two reasons: animal intruders, such as bats or squirrels, or water leaking through the top floor ceiling. This guide deals with water entry, such as roof leaks, ice dams, and attic condensation. Consult your local pest control expert to rid the attic of creatures.

What to Do If Water Comes Through Your Ceiling

Find out where the leak is in your ceiling by measuring its location from the nearest outside walls. Then, go into the attic through the attic hatch. It is often hidden in the ceiling of a closet or in the wall of an attached garage. If it is in a closet, move the clothes out of the closet so loose insulation won’t stick to them. Take a good flashlight and a tape measure.

When walking in the attic in older houses, step only on the wooden joists that cover the floor. The joists are usually spaced every 16 inches. They are often hidden under a pile of insulation. If you step off the joists, you will probably put your foot through the plaster or drywall ceiling below. Many houses, especially in warmer climates, have some type of floorboard over the joists. This makes walking easier but can make air sealing and insulating more complicated.

Most houses built since the 1970s do not have attic rafters and joists, but trusses – usually at 24 inch centres – with the ceiling below attached to the lower chords. Walking in trussed attics is trickier than walking in older attics.

If you find vermiculite insulation in your attic, do not disturb it. Loose-fill vermiculite insulation may contain small amounts of asbestos, and you should consult a professional if it is going to be disturbed.

Find the water leak. Use the tape measure to roughly locate where the water is dripping through the ceiling below. Lift the insulation in this area to find the pooling water. Sometimes the water runs along the attic floor for quite a distance before coming through the ceiling.

Trace the water to its source. Look for leaks in the roof, especially around chimneys, plumbing vents, and attic vents – anything that penetrates the roof sheathing. Quite often the roof flashing is defective and needs replacement. If the sheathing (either boards, plywood, or composite board) along the lower edge of the roof is soaked and you can see a corresponding accumulation of ice on top of the roof, ice damming is occurring. This means that water is backing up under the shingles. Shingles are designed only to shed water running down, not up.
Your inspection may find that leakage is not the problem: the whole attic or part of it may be dripping with condensation or covered with frost.

Attic condensation and ice damming are related. Both can be caused by warm, moist air leaving the house and entering the attic. Attics will be in good shape if there are no holes, air leaks, or bypasses from the house to the attic and there is sufficient insulation to keep house heat from escaping. If you can ensure good air sealing and insulation, the attic will remain cool and dry, as if it were outside. For example, it is rare to see moisture problems or ice damming on the roof of a detached garage or unheated barn.

Where to look for leaks

  • around plumbing stacks or plumbing walls
  • chimneys through the attic
  • any light fixtures from the ceiling below
  • electric wiring
  • ducting for fans or heating systems
  • perimeter walls
  • partition walls
  • party walls
  • above pocket doors
  • above lowered ceilings
  • where the side of a cathedral ceiling meets an open attic
  • split level discontinuities
  • where additions meet an older section of the house
  • above rounded corners or staircases
  • balloon frame walls
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Sample Renovation Contract

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

Compliments of the good people at CMHC.

A detailed written contract between you and the contractor you hire is essential to any renovation or home repair project, no matter its size. Even the smallest job should be put in writing.

Why? To begin with, a written contract constitutes a binding legal agreement between you and your contractor. It spells out the responsibilities and rights of both parties and ensures there is a clear record of the agreement between you and the contractor.

A proper contract also reduces your risk. It helps safeguard you from financial loss or personal liability in case of accidents or injuries during the project.

Finally, a contract establishes the foundation for a good working relationship between you and your contractor. A detailed and clearly written contract reduces confusion and misunderstandings, and helps you both see the work the same way.

Should you feel awkward about asking for a contract? Absolutely not! Professional contractors run a business and know that a written contract is an indispensable part of good business practices. It protects them as well as their customers.

But what if a contractor suggests that you go ahead without a contract, or won’t put anything on paper? Don’t do it! The risks are simply too high.

The following sample renovation contract presents some of the terms and conditions that could be used in a written contract for home renovations and repairs. It is presented for illustrative purposes only to demonstrate what a contract can cover and why such content would be included. Project elements, site-specific details and other factors affecting your renovation may vary. The statements, terms and conditions contained in the sample contract may not be suitable for your particular circumstances.

CMHC assumes no responsibility for any consequences arising from your use of this sample contract or from your reliance upon it.The actual form of contract presented to you by the contractor you hire may differ significantly from this sample contract. It is recommended that you consult appropriate professional resources and seek legal opinion before you sign any contract.

Renovation Contract

Between

Contractor (name of company) ______________________________
Address _______________________________________________
______________________________________________________
Project manager _________________________________________
Telephone __________ Fax ___________ E-mail _______________
Business Number ________________________________________
Municipal Business License #, if applicable _____________________

and

Owner(s) ______________________________________________
Address _______________________________________________
Telephone __ _______Fax ___________ E-mail ________________
Project address (if different from above)________________________
1. Contract Documents

(a) This Contract form

(b) Drawings attached and/or referenced herein (if any)

______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
(c) Specifications attached and/or referenced herein (if any)

______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
(d) Additional documents signed by both parties during the course of this Contract. Extras and deletions to be documented on a Change Order Form and signed by both parties.

______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
(e) Other

______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
Omissions in the Contract Documents and any work requested in variance to the Contract Documents are considered extra to the Contract and are not included in the Contract Price. Any additional work, required due to site conditions known to the Owner and not disclosed to the Contractor, or which could not be reasonably anticipated by the Contractor, are not included in the Contract Price and shall be extra to the Contract Price.

2. Description of Work

Unless otherwise stated, the Contractor agrees to supply all materials, labour and supervision to perform the Work as (choose one):

______ Described below
______ Described in the attached Work Schedule

a. The Work entails the following _____________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________

b. The Work does NOT include the following
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
c. Permits
Work will be undertaken under the following permits which will be provided and paid for by the Owner or the Contractor as designated below.

Owner Contractor
(i) Zoning variance _______ _______
(ii) Demolition permit _______ _______
(iii) Building permit _______ _______
(iv) Electrical permit _______ _______
(v) Plumbing permit _______ _______
(vi) Other _______ _______

Any such permit obtained by the Contractor will be conveyed to the Owner within ___ days of receipt by the Contractor.

The following parties (specify Contractor or Owner) will contact the appropriate authorities for inspections: ______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________

d. Subtrades
The Contractor will use the following subtrades during the performance of the Work as listed below (company name and service provided): ______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________

If any subtrade listed above subsequently becomes unavailable for the Work, the Contractor will provide a suitable replacement, for Owner’s approval prior to the subtrade commencing work.

Nothing contained in the Contract Documents is intended to, nor shall it, create any contractual relation between the Owner and any subtrade. The Contractor agrees that it is responsible for the enforcement of all material provisions of all subcontracts.

3. Timing
Work to commence on or before (date) ________________________
Substantial Completion on or before (date) ______________________
Full Completion on or before (date) ___________________________

Substantial Completion means that the Work has been completed to such a percentage completion as is specified for substantial completion or substantial performance of such Work in the applicable legislation of the province where the Project is situated, that the Work has been completed to the point where it is ready for use for the intended purpose, and that an occupancy permit, where required, has been issued.

All time limits stated in this Contract are of the essence. Notwithstanding the foregoing, any delay in Substantial Completion or Full Completion of the Work (as the case may be) in accordance with the Contract Documents will be considered an excusable delay if arising from causes beyond the Contractor’s control and not reasonably foreseeable by the Contractor with the use of the Contractor’s best professional efforts. Excusable delays include but are not limited to such events as labour disputes, unavailability of materials, delays in obtaining a permit, fire, natural disaster, unfavourable weather conditions, delays (other than delays arising out of Contractor’s breach of this Contract) by, or breach by any subtrades; or any delay by Owner of processing proposed changes, delays resulting from inaccuracies in information provided by the Owner, or delays resulting from the performance of tasks described in section 2b.In the event of the occurrence of an excusable delay, Owner shall grant appropriate extensions to cover such periods of delays. Owner shall have no obligation to grant extensions if delays were not excusable delays, or otherwise resulted, directly or indirectly, from the Contractor’s breach of this Contract. Where a delay occurs, the Contractor must inform the Owner at the earliest possible date of such occurrence, the reason for the delay and anticipated amended dates of completion.

The Contractor and Owner agree that should the Contractor not be able to commence the Work within ___ days from the commencement date specified in this Section, due to causes beyond the Contractor’s control such as inability to obtain a building permit, then the Contractor or the Owner may cancel the Contract on written notice mailed to or delivered to the address of the other party shown in this Contract. The Contractor’s liability to the Owner shall be limited to the refund of any monies paid by the Owner to the Contractor, less any cost incurred by the Contractor as previously agreed to by the Owner as specified below.

______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
4. Terms of Payment
The Contract price is to be calculated as follows (select one):

(a) Stipulated fixed cost basis (all inclusive) $__________________, plus GST/HST Payments shall be due and payable as outlined in the Payment Schedule.

(b) Cost plus ______________% of cost, plus GST/HST Payments shall be due on a bi-weekly _______ or monthly ________ basis (check one).

(c) Cost plus fixed fee of $_______________________, plus GST/HST

Payment shall be due and payable as outlined in the Payment Schedule. A percentage of the fixed fee shall be paid on the presentation of each billing and shall be proportionate to the percentage of work completed for that billing period.

5. Payment Schedule
The Owner will make payments to the Contractor, minus a ___% holdback as required by provincial construction lien legislation, as follows:

Gross Payment Holdback
Signing of Contract $________ $________ $________
Start-up of Work _____ _____ _____
Upon completion of
___________
_____ _____ _____
Upon completion of
____________
_____ _____ _____
Upon completion of
____________
_____ _____ _____
Substantial Completion _____ _____ _____
Full Completion _____ _____ _____
___% Holdback for
___ days
after completion
_____ _____ _____
TOTAL _____ _____ _____

Payment is due within ___ days of invoicing. Interest of ___% per annum, or the maximum rate allowable by law, whichever is less, will be charged on unpaid invoices after the due date.

All payments are subject to applicable legislation and shall be made in accordance with provisions of this Contract and the provisions of any applicable legislation. All payments must be made to the Contractor. Any payment to a subcontractor is not deemed a payment to the Contractor.

6. Changes in Work
The Owner may make changes by altering, adding to, or deducting from the Work, with the Contract and Contract Price being adjusted accordingly. Changes to the Work require a written Change Order Form, signed by both the Owner and the Contractor.

a) Extras will be calculated in the following manner (check one):
1) ___ Material cost plus hourly rate of $ ___
2) ___ Labour and material cost plus ____%
3) ___ A lump sum to be agreed on in advance by both parties.

Extras are payable upon (check one):
1) ___ Signing the Change Order
2) ___ Invoicing pursuant to the Change Order
3) ___ Completion of work specified in Change Order less___% holdback in all cases.

b) Deletions will be calculated on a cost less ___% basis, to be deducted from the relevant or next scheduled payment.

7. Utilities and Washroom Facilities
The Contractor and the Owner agree that responsibility for the provision of utilities and facilities to meet work and worker requirements will be assumed in the following manner:

Owner Contractor
(a) Water _____ _____
(b) Electricity _____ _____
(c) Washroom _____ _____
(d) Other
________________
_____ _____
8. Standards of Work
The Contractor agrees to supply all labour, materials and supervision to complete the Work in accordance with the Contract Documents.The Contractor agrees to undertake all Work diligently in a good and workmanlike manner, in accordance with good quality residential standards and practices, and in compliance with any applicable Building Code and all other authorities having jurisdiction.

The Owner accepts that there may be inconveniences from time to time, and the Contractor agrees to keep such inconveniences to a reasonable minimum. It is the responsibility of the Owner to take reasonable steps to provide a work area free of household obstructions, and to remove or protect household items in areas where it may be reasonably anticipated by the Owner that they may be subject to dust, damage or vibrations.

The Contractor agrees to keep the site orderly and reasonably free of debris. At the completion of the project, the Contractor shall clean the property and leave it fit for use. All equipment, materials, rubbish and similar material incidental to the project shall be removed by the Contractor.

9. Warranty
The Contractor shall correct, at its’ own expense, any defects in the Work due to faulty materials and/or workmanship pursuant to this Contract for a period of ___ year(s) from the date of Full Completion.

The Owner shall give the Contractor written notice of such defects within a reasonable time, and in any event within the warranty period.

Special conditions limiting/affecting this warranty (if any)
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________
______________________________________________________

The Contractor will convey to Owner any warranties by manufacturers or suppliers on individual materials, products or systems supplied by Contractor under this Contract.

The Contractor does not warrant labour and/or materials supplied by the Owner or the Owner’s subcontractors. The Contractor shall protect the Work, the Owner’s property and the property of third parties from damage occasioned by the performance of its obligations under the Contract Documents.

10. Insurance
Prior to commencing the Work, the Contractor agrees to provide, maintain and pay for insurance during the time the Work is being performed, including commercial general liability in the minimum amount of $1,000,000 against claims for damages for personal injury or property damage by reason of anything done or not done by the Contractor, its employees or agents, in connection with the performance of this Contract. The Contractor will also provide proof of automobile liability insurance. The Contractor is responsible for all materials on site provided by the Contractor for the Work in this Contract until installed.

11. Compliance with Workers’ Compensation and Other Laws
The Contractor agrees to provide evidence of compliance by the Contractor’s own company and any of the Contractor’s subcontractors with all requirements for registration and payments due under the province’s workers’ compensation statute.

The Contractor also agrees to comply with all laws, ordinances, rules, regulations, codes and orders in force during the performance of the Contract which relate to the preservation of public health or construction safety.

12. Other Contractors
Owner reserves the right to let separate contracts in connection with the Work or to do certain work by Owner’s own forces as specified in Description of Work.The Contractor shall include in his work co-ordination with Owner’s separate contractors or forces, and Owner shall pay the Contractor $ __________ for coordination of same.

13. Dispute Resolution
The Owner and the Contractor agree that in the event of a dispute as to the interpretation of this Contract or the extent of the Work, the issues shall be submitted to arbitration as agreed to by both parties or under the province’s arbitration statute.

14. Default by Owner
In the event that (a) the Owner does not perform its obligations under this Contract in accordance with the terms of this Contract and has not corrected the default within ___ days of written notice by the Contractor, or (b) the Owner becomes bankrupt or makes a general assignment for the benefit of its creditors, or if a receiver of the Owner is appointed, or (c) if the Work is stopped as a result of a court order, then the Contractor may cease work and treat the contract as repudiated forthwith on the occurrence of such default. In such event, an accounting shall be made between the Owner and the Contractor, and the Contractor shall be entitled to payment for such parts of the Work as are completed at the time of default.

15. Default by Contractor
In the event that (a) the Contractor does not perform the Work in accordance with the terms of this Contract and has not corrected the default within ___ days of written notice by the Owner, or (b) the Contractor becomes bankrupt or makes a general assignment for the benefit of its creditors, or if a receiver of the Contractor is appointed, then the Owner may finish the Work in accordance with the plans and specifications as the Owner may deem expedient, but without undue delay or expense.

In such event, the Contractor shall not be entitled to any further payment under this Contract, but upon completion of the Work, an accounting shall be made between the Owner and the Contractor. If the unpaid balance on the Contract Price shall exceed the expense of finishing the Work, the Owner shall pay the Contractor for such parts of the work as were payable or completed at the time of the default. However, if such expense shall exceed such unpaid balance, the Contractor shall pay the difference to the Owner.

16. Signs
The Owner agrees to permit the Contractor to display a sign on the project site until completion.

This Contract shall not be assigned, in whole or in part, without the prior written consent of the other party, which consent will not be unreasonably withheld or delayed.

This Contract shall be governed by and construed under the laws of the Province in which the project is situated, and supercedes all prior communications and agreements. There are no other terms outside of this Contract.

The Contractor assures that there is not now any claim, action, contract, rule or other circumstance which may interfere with the Contractor’s ability to perform its obligations under this contract.

________________ ________________ ________________
Owner Date Witness
________________ ________________ ________________
Owner Date Witness
________________ ________________ ________________
Contractor Date Witness

Commentaries

Parties to the Contract

Renovation companies range from one-person operations to sizeable outfits with salespeople, admin-istrative staff and on-site personnel. The contract is between you and the company, and should specify the key individual from the company who will be performing or managing the work and be your primary contact.

A Business Number is required for all businesses that are registered for GST/HST. By comparison, only a few municipalities across the country require a business license. A few provinces also require renovation contractors to be bonded. If in doubt, contact the appropriate authority for clarification.

1—Contract Documents

For small projects, this contract form alone may be similar to the full contract between you and your contractor. Larger projects may require additional documents, such as drawings and plans which should be attached and become part of the contract.

Specifications describe the materials and products that will be used in the work. Specifications should be detailed and include as appropriate: brand name, dimensions, model, product number, colour (number and/or specific name), performance characteristics and so on. On a small job using few different products, specifications may be written directly into the Description of Work on the contract form.

2—Description of Work

The key word for this section is detail. It should give a thorough description of the work and what is to be done, step by step. That way, nothing is left to chance or left out by mistake, and both you and your contractor have a clear understanding of what the work entails. Typically, some of the things that should be listed are:

  • preparatory work (e.g. tearing down walls, removing old shingles);
  • items to be salvaged for reuse (e.g. bathroom fixtures, moulding);
  • waste disposal (e.g. hauling to landfill site; special treatment of classified or hazardous wastes);
  • structural details (e.g. framing, sheathing, insulation, sub-floors, ductwork, hook-up for plumbing and electrical services);
  • brand-name, style and other product information (e.g. furnace, windows, fixtures, siding, roofing)—can refer to specification list, if any;
  • size and location (e.g. windows, doors, closets)—can refer to drawings, if any;
  • finishing work (e.g. number of coats of paint & stain).

Any work the contractor will not be responsible for must also be noted, for instance, landscaping or laying carpeting. Also, will you provide some of the materials yourself? Will you be doing some of the work yourself? Or hire others to do it? This should be specified in the description of work.

The contractor should be able to tell you what permits are required for your renovation. It is normal practice for the contractor to get the permits required for the work for their clients, but responsibility for obtaining permits and requesting inspections should be specified in the contract. Be aware though, that responsibility for complying with prevailing permit requirements ultimately rests with the owner of a property. If you have any questions, call your municipality. Also find out if a security deposit is needed to cover any damage and repair to municipal property or utilities resulting from your work.

A zoning variance may be needed for a number of reasons (e.g. if you want to extend the existing building beyond the set-back allowances on the property or add a second story to your home). Getting a variance can be a lengthy process that includes the formal notification and approval of neighbours.

A thorough description of work can run several pages in length and can be attached to the contract as a separate document, to be signed by both parties. One way to decide if the description is detailed enough is to think of it as a set of instructions. Would two people using this description end up with the same result, or are there gaps in the information or a need for clarification?

3—Timing

The dates represent the contractor’s best estimate of when work can begin and how long it will take to complete. For longer projects, or those involving distinct stages, the contractor might estimate completion dates for each stage.

The contractor should schedule the work carefully to ensure an efficient and logical progression. This is particularly critical if a number of subcontractors are involved and must be slotted in at the right time. The schedule also needs to consider any work that you want to undertake yourself or hire others directly to do, when and if this work has a direct bearing on the contractor’s work. For instance, if you wish to look after plumbing or wiring yourself, the schedule should allow a reasonable time for this task. At the same time, you need to make sure that this job is done within the given time, or the contractor may not be able to complete your project on schedule.

If you want to make any changes once work is underway, you should speak directly with the contractor or the appointed project manager, not the subcontractors or workers on site.

Discuss the work schedule with the contractor. If there are certain hours or days when you don’t want work to take place, the contractor needs to plan around these restrictions. These times and dates should be specified in the contract.

In the event of cancellation of the contract prior to start-up, the contractor may charge you for the preparation of plans and other working documents.This cost will be deducted from the refund given you by the contractor, and the plans and other documents will be handed over to you. Similarly, the contractor will deduct the cost of any upfront special-order purchases, such as customized windows.

4—Terms of Payment

Contractors use several methods to determine the cost of a renovation.The all-inclusive stipulated fixed cost is used most commonly. In a cost-plus contract, used primarily in larger projects requiring a higher level of management and administration, the contractor will charge for all expenses incurred in the course of the work (materials, labour, rentals, etc.) plus an additional fee for project management, calculated as a percentage of the total expenses. Or the contractor may suggest billing for the cost plus a fixed fee for management and administration. Discuss with your renovator what approach might be most appropriate for your project.

5—Payment Schedule

There is no single standard model for payment—the payment schedule depends on the contractor and the work. A clear schedule and an upfront discussion before you sign the contract will help to prevent misunderstandings and conflicts down the road.

It is common practice to pay a deposit upon signing of the contract. The size of the deposit can vary significantly, from 5 to 15 percent of the value of the contract. If your project requires custom-made products, such as windows or doors, the contractor may ask for a non-refundable payment when the products are ordered.

In larger renovations, the contractor may want you to make progress payments at specific milestones, e.g. after pouring the foundation for an addition and again when the frame has been enclosed with exterior walls and a roof. Progress payments enable the contractor to pay subtrades and suppliers for work done early in the project.

Construction lien legislation requires that you hold back a certain percentage of every payment you make, for a certain length of time. This legislation is designed to protect you, the homeowner, in case the contractor does not pay the subtrades and suppliers involved in your project. If not paid, these people have the right to place a lien against your property within a specified length of time (typically 45 to 60 days). Lien legislation is under provincial jurisdiction, and the specific requirements vary from one province to another. You can contact the authorities in your province for more information.

“Completion” can happen in phases. Substantial completion means that the project is ready to use. Final completion means that everything is done, down to the last item. Occasionally, lengthy delays may occur because of late delivery of small items, such as door knobs. You and your contractor can work out a final completion holdback, that allows you to pay the contractor for work already done by him while holding back a reasonable amount for the final details of the work. Weather and a change of seasons may also cause a delay in the completion of the work, and you and your contractor may need to work out a “seasonal holdback”, so that certain work is paid for later if this work can only be completed later.

Holdbacks are often placed in trust with a lawyer until the release date.

6—Changes in Work

If you change your mind and want to add or delete something to the work, contractors are usually able and willing to accommodate you. Extras are supplementary to the contract, and payment is likewise outside the scope of the original contract.You may have to pay a premium for extras, especially if they disrupt work that has already been done or cause a delay in planned work. If you want to scale the work back, you may have to pay a penalty for the same reasons.The contractor may charge you a percentage of the value of the cancelled work.

7—Utilities and Washroom Facilities

Most renovation projects require access to water and electricity. The contract should clarify if the contractor can tap into your utilities or has to make alternative arrangements. Heavy-duty equipment may require more power than your home can provide, and the contractor may have to bring a generator on site. Contractors appreciate being able to use your washroom facilities, but you are under no obligation to allow this.

This is also a good time to discuss the logistics of material delivery and storage. Where can suppliers’ trucks pull in to unload? What’s the best place to store materials, as close to the work site as possible and with as little inconvenience to you as possible? Or where to put a bin or container for waste materials?

8—Standards of Work

Most renovation work entails some degree of disruption and inconvenience to your household, however, the definition of this can be fairly subjective. The best approach is to discuss your concerns and expectations openly with the contractor. What impact will the work have on the household routine? What will the contractor do to minimize it? What level of daily clean-up will they do? What kind of final clean-up can you expect at the end of the project?

9—Warranty

The contractor should guarantee all workmanship and materials for at least one year after completion of the project. Many products (e.g. windows, furnace, roofing shingles) come with individual manufacturer’s warranties, some extending beyond a one-year period. In the case of defects in these warranted products, the contractor may assume responsibility for dealing with the manufacturers as a matter of professional courtesy; however, it is a good idea to clarify the process with the contractor.

10—Insurance

The contractor should carry third-party liability insurance, not only to protect your property, home and family, but also adjacent properties as well as neighbours and anyone else who might come onto your property. As a minimum, the contractor should carry $1,000,000 in coverage, and many carry $2,000,000 or more—the larger the renovation project, the greater the coverage needed to ensure full protection in case of accident or injury. It is also a good idea to verify that the contractor is insured against theft of any materials on-site that the contractor is responsible for under the contract, until the materials or products have been installed. Note that the contractor’s insurance will not cover materials provided by you.

To be on the safe side, contact your insurance company before work begins. A small renovation will likely not affect your own homeowner’s insurance. However, a major project may turn your home into a construction site which in turn may affect the conditions of your agreement with the insurance company. If you plan to vacate the house for any time during the renovation, you should tell them. If the renovations add value to your home, you may need to increase your coverage to reflect higher replacement cost of your home.

11—Compliance with Workers’ Compensation and Other Laws

Workers’ compensation provides insurance for workers in case of workplace injuries. It is legislated provincially under various names (e.g., Workers’ Compensation Act or Workplace Safety and Insurance Act); details of the programs vary from one province to another.

As a homeowner, you need to protect yourself and make sure that you are not liable for injury and/or loss of income, if someone gets hurt while working on your renovation. By law, your contractor must register the company’s employees for workers’ compensation.Your contractor should also verify that any subcontractors working on your project are covered. Ask your contractor for proof of registration; in some provinces, homeowners can request a “letter of clearance” by fax or e-mail directly from the program.

Sole or independent operators, who run their own company, are by definition not “employees”; however, they can still subscribe to workers’ compensation.To protect yourself, you should demand that a sole-operator contractor is either covered by worker’s compensation or by personal disability insurance in case of an accident on your project.

Be aware that if you hire someone who is not covered by workers’ compensation, you could end up being identified as the employer and therefore liable for injuries and/or loss of income.

If you have any questions or concerns, contact the appropriate workers’ compensation program in your province.

12—Other Contractors

You may want to contract out a specific job (such as bricklaying or electrical) to someone other than the contractor. Some administrative time may be required to coordinate this work with the rest of the work that is being handled by your contractor, and you may be charged for this administration. Bear in mind that work done by others cannot be warranted by the contractor.

You will need to ensure that other contractors hired by you are covered by workers’ compensation and have liability insurance. Also be aware that even having friends and family giving you a helping hand on your renovations entails a potential liability in case of injury. You might want to talk with your insurance company to get a clear under-standing of your position in such circumstances.

13—Dispute resolution

In spite of a clear, detailed contract, disputes can, and occasionally do, arise for any number of reasons. Good communication can go a long way in settling any disagreements between you and your contractor. As a first step, you should sit down together to discuss the problem calmly and seek a solution that you both can live with comfortably. This is usually the fastest, least expensive and ultimately, most satisfactory approach.

It is a good idea, however, to agree in advance on a process to deal with possible disagreements down the road. Some contracts may provide for the appointment of a third party (or parties) to arbitrate, specifying how third parties are selected and whether their decision would be binding on you and your contractor. Depending on the problem, the arbitrator might be a certified home inspector, an engineer or anyone else with the required expertise and neutrality.

Alternatively, the contract may refer to provincial legislation which provides for a formal arbitration process to help you resolve your dispute.

14 and 15—Default by Owner or Contractor

The contract should spell out what happens in case of default by either the owner or the contractor. This is a fall-back provision to be used when all else fails; in practice, good communication between you and your contractor, and a willingness to work things out, often make it possible to find alternative approaches.

16—Signs

This is common practice. Most renovation contractors welcome, and ask for, the opportunity to promote their services to your neighbours and passers-by. If the company does not want to display its sign, it could be an indication that the contractor is avoiding visibility, i.e., is working underground and doesn’t want to run the risk of being caught.

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